Leather Storrs: Learning to Recognize & Celebrate Regional Specialties
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Thursday, June 11, 2015
Leather Storrs, GolocalPDX Contributor
When there’s a story about urban farming, or sustainable eating, local news people come see me. With our rooftop garden and commitment to local foods, we have a feel good Portland-y angle that’s a short drive for reporters on a deadline. Last week we were visited by a reporter who was expanding on a University of California (Merced) study by Elliott Campbell. In the study, Mr. Campbell suggests that many American cities could provide enough food for their inhabitants within a fifty mile radius. On the surface this might seem to be locavoriffic validation for the farm to table movement. Unfortunately, it ignores three significant aspects critical to economic sustainability and culinary diversity: comparative advantage, regional specialization and a comprehensive shipping network.
Comparative advantage is the notion that every region has a unique set of circumstances which give it the ability to produce something better and/or at a lower cost than any other region. Consider the tobacco of the Carolinas or maple syrup from Vermont or hazelnuts from Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
Can we grow citrus in the Northwest? How about avocados or Pecans? The answer is maybe, but why? Just to be spiteful? The pride in your ability to drink Northwest grapefruit juice would be quickly extinguished by its low quality and exorbitant price. Besides, planting less than high performing crops bears the opportunity cost of planting outside of your regional advantage. Why commit to a crop that can be sourced from a state that produces it better and at a lower cost? Shall we add smugness to subsidies as critical problems for modern American farming?
Additionally, ignoring comparative advantage robs chefs and consumers of the ability to experience geographic specialties. Pancakes without real syrup? Thanksgiving without cranberry sauce? Anything without Sriracha? Sacrilege! Our country is years behind most in terms of recognizing and celebrating regional specialties. In Italy, the ham of Parma is king. The tomatoes of San Marzano are nationally regarded as superior. Buffalo mozzarella comes from low on the boot and nowhere else is it made better. In fact, its quality and the region in which it is made are defined and sanctioned by the government.
Are we prepared to undo the strides we’ve made in enriching and defining our national cuisine? If Americans shun regional delicacies from other parts of the country, the economic ramifications could be disastrous. Further, we doom ourselves to shrunken larders and months of root vegetables.
Finally, closing the culinary circle in any region disregards the fact that we have an efficient and inexpensive system for distributing goods throughout the nation. That train is going to run from Virginia to California whether or not there are 6 additional cars of majestic Smithfield ham. How is Virginia supposed to eat all that ham? How are we not? Geez, get some nice olive oil and eight cars of avocados in return.
Same goes for planes. In case you didn’t notice the doubling of UPS and FedEx trucks, maybe you noticed that Amazon package on your porch. Ship happens and a grip of lobsters on ice from New England certainly won’t mind sharing a flight with all those Zappos boxes. It’s a hell of a country if we’re willing to give up on stone crab and key limes but not cheap loafers.
Leather Storrs is an Oregon native who has served 20 years in professional kitchens. He owns a piece of two area restaurants: Noble Rot and Nobleoni at Oregon College of Art and Craft, where he yells and waves arms. He quietly admits to having been a newspaper critic in Austin, Texas and Portland.
Related Slideshow: The 10 Legendary Food Challenges in Portland (Big Eaters Club)
Looking to challenge your appetite? Here are some possible food challenges that may spark your interest.
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Casa del Sol
Food: Burrito
Price: $22
Challenge: It's all free if you eat 2 pounds of carne asada, 10 ten inch tortillas, and a side of beans and rice. If you eat this all in 30 minutes you can also get a $15 gift card or a Casa del Sol t-shirt.
Casa del Sol, 14324 S.E. Division St. and other locations. [link to website], 97236, 503-762-1033
Photo Credit: jeffreyw via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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Mad Greek Deli
Food: Sandwich
Price: $30
Challenge: 8 pound massive Mad Greek Sandwich, 1 lb. of Greek fries, and a 32-ounce drink must all be consumed within one hour. If you accomplish that goal (and you must) you will receive all the money in the pot which is at $640 right now. If you fail, at least you have a new pot in your belly to take home.
Mad Greek Deli, 1740 E. Burnside St. [link to website], 97214, 503-645-1650
Photo Credit: Antonio Fajardo i López (Own work) Live look
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Voodoo Doughnuts
Food: Doughnut
Price: $4.25
Challenge: Eat a gigantic glazed doughnut in 80 seconds. Guess what you get if you eat the Texas doughnut... You guessed it! A button thats says, "You Win!"
Voodoo Doughnuts, 22 SW 3rd Ave. [link to website], 97204, 503-241-4704
Photo Credit: travel oriented via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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Sayler’s Old Country Kitc
Food: 72 ounce steak
Price: $65
Challenge: One 72-ounce medium rare top sirloin steak must be consumed with all the trimmings: 2 pieces each of celery, carrots, olives, dill pickles, one regular salad, ten french fries or one baked potato and one slice of bread. To top it off you also must eat a dish of ice cream and drink a regular sized beverage. If you chew this all down in one hour you will get the dish free of charge and the honor of being “that guy/girl.”
Winners so far: 8 women and 571 men. Losers? 39 women and 1,285 unlucky dudes.
Sayler’s Old Country Kitchen, 10519 SE Stark St. [link to website], 97216, 503-252-4171
Photo Credit: Petr K (Own work) Live link
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Skyline Burgers
Food: Burger
Price: $25
Challenge: It’s all about the 4 1/2 lb. Quadzilla Burger. Scarf that sucker down with a coke and a pound of fries in less than 30 minutes and you don’t have to pay for it.
Skyline Burgers, 2200 NE Broadway St. [link to website], 97232, 503-808-1553
Photo Credit: stu_spivack via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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The Original
Food: Poutine
Price: $25
Challenge: Consume 5 lbs. of poutine—cheese curds, potatoes and gravy—within 30 minutes and you not only get your meal free but you also get a free t-shirt. As of right now this competition is discontinued, but in a couple of months you may be able to take on the challenge.
The Original Dinerant, 300 SW 6th Ave. [link to website], 97204, 503-546-2666
Photo Credit: yurilong via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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Stepping Stone Cafe
Food: Pancakes
Price: $8.50
Challenge: Complete three “Mancake” pancakes and you will end up on this Northwest breakfast joints “wall of shame.”
Stepping Stone Cafe, 2390 NW Quimby St. [link to website], 97210, 503-222-1132
Photo Credit: jeffreyw via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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Salvador Molly’s
Food: Habanero Cheese Fritters
Price: $7.95
Challenge: Complete five habanero cheese fritters with sauce and you will end up with your name on the wall with 40 other people (the wall comes down every year).
Salvador Molly’s, 1523 SW Sunset Blvd. [link to website], 97239, 503-293-1790
Photo Credit: dfilippini via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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Hungry Tiger
Food: Vegan Corn Dogs
Price: $1 on Wednesdays
Challenge: If you eat more than the last guy or gal, you get $1 PBR for 90 days as long as your record holds.
Hungry Tiger, 207 SE 12th Ave. [link to website], 97214, 503- 238-4321
Photo Credit: stu_spivack via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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Fire On The Mountain
Food: Hot Wings
Price: $13
Challenge: 15 El Jefe wings in three minutes. One sauce. One drink. One napkin. If you swallow all that down you end up with an organic t-shirt that says “I Survived The El Jefe”… XXX
Fire On The Mountain, 1708 E. Burnside St. and other locations. [link to website], 97215, 503-230-9464
Photo Credit: goodiesfirst via Compfight cc (image cropped)
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