5 Things To Know About Portland’s Lincoln Restaurant

Tuesday, December 02, 2014

Caryn Brooks, GoLocalPDX Contributor

Sometimes restaurants get so much attention during their ignition phase that after a while people stop mentioning them because they’re just assumed to be good. But reflection is important during all phases of a restaurant’s life and Lincoln, with its four-star kitchen general Jenn Louis, is no exception. Louis and her husband David Welch opened Lincoln on Williams Avenue in 2008 and it is one of the first aspirational spots to take root there. But what about Lincoln today? Here are five things to know about the restaurant.

1. Lincoln, given its location and accolades, could easily be staffed by the sort of holier-than-thou hipster servers that take up residence in other similar spots. But no, the servers at Lincoln universally seem to be real adults who give a shit about, you know, service. On multiple recent visits they received special requests like champs, took initiative (when my dining companion and I discussed sharing some dessert brandy, it came to the table split into two snifters), and were generally warm and genial. Bravo.

2. They have a dessert that is a close equivalent to sex. I generally find sexual terms used to describe food as easy, juvenile, and sometimes gross. But this popcorn panna cotta of theirs, served warm with a slick layer of salty caramel on top, takes you away to that special place. Enough said.

3. They have a few huge, high-walled booths which would make great locations to either ask for someone’s hand in marriage or plan a murder. Or both?

4. While many things on the menu change, they generally always have flatbread on offer. Flatbread doesn’t sound that exciting, but what they do with it is. The kitchen rotates seasonal zingy toppings and the slightly crispy, slightly pliant flatbread acts as a friendly host. A recent combo of flatbread with a nutty, honey spread turned it into a dismantled baklava.

5. Let’s face it, Lincoln ain’t cheap. This is great quality, creative cooking and the entrees run $18 - $36. BUT, they offer a sweet happy hour in the bar area from 5 pm to 7 pm Tuesday - Friday that lets you sample Lincoln’s kitchen on more affordable terms. The happy hour menu usually has a poutine with rotating toppings that shows off their creativity.